There are certain things that we get repeated calls about when people are first installing a Legacy system, or they are doing an update. I thought I'd cover some of these today. This blog post doesn't cover situations where the organ used to work, then got hit by lighting (or something) and doesn't work anymore; that's a post unto itself. We haven't done enough Maestro systems yet for me to call anything common or repeated.

 

Stops turn off with the Crescendo:

You have set the Crescendo using  SETUP #10 (ORM Section 2.13) and you have confirmed that the Crescendo stages have stops on them, but as you press down on the Crescendo shoe you discover that some thing(s) are turning off that shouldn't. This probably means the Crescendo/SFZ Inhibit Mask (SETUP #89) has not been set correctly. The inhibit mask tells the organ which tabs on the console should be disabled once the Crescendo shoe (or SFZ) has reached 1/3 of its travel. Some people get this backwards. When setting this mask turn ON the tabs that you want disabled.

 

Crescendo Bargraph isn't working:

The Crescendo itself is working. The numbers on the control panel are correctly showing you the stages, but nothing is happening on the bargraph. The first thing I look for in this case is the jumper on the 'J' connector of the Console Control Computer (CCC). Look at you Console Wiring Schematic, you will see that there is a jumper wire between J-1 and J-6.

 

Division(s) or non-coupling stop(s) aren't playing:

If you have a larger organ and the Pedal, Great, and Swell are working, but higher divisions like an Antiphonal or Echo are not, check the jumper on the Pipe Control Computer (PCC). Near the power input connector on the PCC you will find a set of pins labelled 512, 1024, and 1536 and a jumper on one of these sets. The position of the jumper tells the PCC how much data is arriving from the CCC, i.e., if 512 is jumpered, then the PCC will expect 512 bits of data. If more than 512 bits are sent, the extra (your Antiphonal key data) will be ignored.

 

Temperature Sensor Board (TSB) isn't working:

Make sure that JP-62 on the CCC is in place. On older systems make sure there is a jumper on the CCC between Z-5 and J-7. Do you have power on the TSB? The PCC-1E is optically isolated, this means that the TSB does not get its power from the chamber, its power comes from the console. Have you used all 12 wires on the 'A' connector of the PCC, and did you put +12V on the SSR line on the CCC? The SSR line may be accessed by putting +12V on Z-6. On the PCC connector 'C' you should have approximately +2-3V on pin 1, +12V on pin 3, and 0V on pin 4.

 

EPROM chip put in backwards:

Don't beat yourself up, everybody has done it, and if you are anything like me you've done it more than once! If it is a console chip it's probably ruined, you need to program/get a new one. If it is the chamber chip you have about a 50/50 chance of it still being ok, if you didn't leave it in too long.

 

Dual-magnetic stop actions in discrete system aren't working:

Check the wiring. This is NOT pin for pin from the computer to the driver, the Data and Clock lines are reversed. Also, check the wiring coming from the driver board(s) sometimes a pin is skipped when it shouldn't be, or it was wired when it should have been skipped.

 

Pistons or lights on piston panel not working:

The pistons and the lights on the Push Button Mounting Boards are independent of each other, thus it is possible for the pistons to work, but not the lights, or vice versa. If either the pistons or the lights on your panel aren't working, check which way around you have the connector. For the PBM-43, unlike most boards built by Classic, the label for the connector is NOT beside pin 1. Look for a dot beside the connector, showing pin 1.

 

Numeric Display NDD3 / ND-2:

Unfortunately the person who designed this board (and doesn't work here anymore) didn't define pin #1, they labelled each pin individually as DI, DO, CK etc. This has led occasionally, to the connector being plugged in backwards. When you look at your Console Wiring Schematic you will see I've labelled each wire going to the board to match the labels on the board. On the NDD3 I use the pin closest to the corner as pin 1. On the ND-2 it's harder to identify, but we usually use a black marker to show pin 1.

     

Ventils Doing Weird Things:

Ventils can disable stops, turn stops on, or both; setting ventils is a 2 step process (See Section 2.26 in the ORM). First, set the mask for the ventil (Setup #88), all stops that are affected by this ventil need to be included in this mask, whether they are turned off or on. Second, tell the computer what stops to turn on; even if this ventil doesn't turn anything on, it must be specified. Sometimes builders set the mask for something like a 'Reeds Off' but they don't set anything for step 2, after all, it doesn't turn anything on. This leaves the computer confused., you need to specifically tell the computer not to turn anything on.

 

Several random stops (or pistons) don't work:

Compare the stops that aren't working to the wiring tables. Although they may appear random, they may not be; there may be a pattern in the wiring. Stops are wired in groups of 8, but they are not aren't usually physically positioned on the console in groups of 8. 

 

Hope this help!

Cathy

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